Come Visit-Join a Tour

Tour Dates

Upcoming Tours

May 6
May 13

Morning Tour

8:30-12 pm (3-4 hours)

Price

5,000 yen/person (prices include entrance fees)

Tour Reservation

Please send an email to the following address for reservations or other inquiries.

greg@handsonkyoto.com

For other tourist information about Kyoto, please visit handsonkyoto.com

Location

View Gojo Chawanzaka Cultural Area in a larger map

History・Tradition

The Pilgrimage: Devout Worshippers & Tourists Alike

For well over millennia, Kiyomizudera (Temple of Pure Water) has attracted people from all over Japan. Even in modern times, it continues to be a favoured destination for both Japanese and international visitors alike. Now a days, tourists tend to dominate the scene, however it wasn’t always so. Originally, the mesmerizing 11 faced, 1,000 arm Kannon (Boddhisatva of Mercy) Buddhist statue and Otowa pure waterfall drew many a devout follower, from all over Japan. The fact Kiyomizudera Temple also belonged to the sacred West Country 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, made it a must visit destination for many pious pilgrims.

In the Edo period (1600-1868) however, peace and stability finally materialised in Japan after the Warring States period (roughly 1467-1568) characterized by various lords vying for the title of shogun (military leader), leaving in their wake destruction and instability. To a great degree, peace and stability stemmed from the strict rules and regulations Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu imposed, not only on the lower and middle class (samurai, farmers, tradesmen, merchants) but also on powerful daimyo (lords), greatly restricting them to the point they were too weak financially and militarily to rise up against him. These restrictions were seen in such areas as travel, and a major reason why the 5 Kaido (5 major highways) became intricate to Ieyasu’s overall strategy of controlling the flow of goods and people. With people’s freedom to travel limited, they sought ways around impositions.

One such way took the form of the pilgrimage. Whether you were a devout believer or simply wanted to travel for pleasure, using the pilgrimage as a legitimate reason to walk or ride along one of the main highways, seems to have been commonly used. As time passed, more and more people traveled to Kyoto to see Kiyomizudera Temple. As a result, the area grew into a bustling commercial centre.

Ceramics: Dirty Hands Make for Clean Hearts

The slopes, now referred to as Gojo (5th street) and Chawanzaka (Tea Bowl Slope), are two sloped streets situated in the eastern part of Kyoto and compose a walkway leading from Gojo Bridge (5th street bridge) to the foot of the eastern hills, where the famous Kiyomizudera Temple has been since the late 8^th century. The origin of Kyoyaki (Kyoto ceramics) is said to have its roots in the 8^th century, however at that time neither the concept of Kyoyaki, nor the characteristic Kyoyaki style had yet come of age. Initially the official name Kyoyaki didn’t exist, but sometime during the 16-17^th century, new ceramic techniques appear to have been introduced to Kyoto potters from southern Japan. The introduction of gold, blue and red into the ceramics process, transformed it into a novel ceramics style, and soon thereafter received the official name Kyoyaki.

The Gojo・Chawanzaka Cultural Area underwent significant commercial development in the Meiji (1868-1911) and early Taisho periods (1912-1926). A large number of potters and kilns became a dominant feature of the environs of Kiyomizudera, in particular along the sloped Gojo and Chawanzaka streets. It wasn’t all too uncommon for visitors to be greeted with smoke bellowing out of the multitude of kilns producing Kyoyaki, and at one point these kilns reportedly supplied over 50 percent of domestic demand. Potters such as Kawai Kanjiro approached their craft with a religious fervour, matching that or even surpassing those who came to visit the Kannon of Mercy. To them, the process of making ceramics seemed to be a way to constantly purify their hearts and be one with nature.

Netherworld: An Imaginary Boundary

The Kamo river (running north/south) divides Kyoto into west and east, and for the longest time served as an imaginary boundary to those living on the western side. Supposedly, from the Heian period (794-1184) onwards, land on the eastern side was used as burial grounds and considered the netherworld, thus crossing the river was analogous to moving from the physical into the spiritual realm, or land of the dead. The current Otani graveyard (around 1650) is actually not as old as its predecessors, nonetheless it serves as a powerful reminder of how those west of the river, regarded it.

In the past few years, the potters in the Gojo・Chawanzaka area have formed the Gojo・Chawanzaka Network to increase awareness of the area and create the “Gojo・Chawanzaka Cultural Area.” With the co-operation and collaboration of members from esteemed lineages, ranging from Living Japanese National Treasures to potters who have reached impressive levels within the world of ceramics, they are promoting awareness of the uniquely beautiful, rich world of Kyoyaki.

Currently, the network is composed of potters but there is a possibility membership will expand to other traditional arts in the future. In any case, emphasis will remain on increasing the cultural value of the area. While there aren’t as many potters today as there were in past days, there is still a size-able number of potters in the area. Through tours and other events such as One-One-One the network is trying to revive an older spirit, seeking ways to co-exist along side the souvenir shops, restaurants and other commercial endeavours.

Buyer’s Guide

Quick Tips

What to look for?

• Made in Japan

Check if it’s made in Japan. Sometimes you’ll see a sticker saying Kyoyaki but other ceramic styles such as Shigaraki yaki, Bizen and others are also sold, so please ask.

• Ask if it’s handmade or machine made

Note: Almost all Kyoyaki ceramics are 100% hand made and hand painted

• Use your imagination

Many ceramic pieces are intended for Japanese cuisine, such as chopstick holders, rice bowls etc. Even though you may not use chopsticks or other pieces the way they were originally intended, why not try to envision new uses for pieces? For example, small ceramic bowls could be candy dishes. Sake bottles could be unique flower vases.